SPORTS GIRL'S FASHION SUSTAINABILITY

Sportsgirl is a major national retail chain that, in recent years has been under attack for the unethical environmental issues in their supply chain regarding fur and waste production and the plausible link between the two. Sportsgirl has addressed the following environmental issues among their stakeholders and publics and furthermore implemented strategic actions and plans to improve their production supply chain following their relative retail competitors.

Fur: Mean, not ‘Green’

In recent years Sportsgirl has been under media attack for its use of Angora rabbit fur, which is sourced from, the mistreatment of Angora rabbits in China. Consumers have ultimately become more aware of the ethical and environmental issues involved in using animals for clothing through animal activists such as PETA. This exposure of unethical animal mistreatment vastly resulted in consumers threatening to boycott organizations who source, manufacture and produce clothing made from animal fur (McMahon, 2014). PETA, the activists for the ethical treatment of animals have stated they wrote to Sportsgirl concerning the unethical practice and treatment of Angora fur and explained that adopting sourcing policies – in the false hope of ensuring rabbits are treated ‘humanely’ is unfortunately not a solution.

Unethical Environmental Animal Fur Production

The use of real animal fur in production not only comes with the inhuman, unethical treatment of animals but also with an environmental impact (PETA, 2015).

PETA (2015, p.1) explains, “Once as animal has been slaughtered and skinned, his or her fur is treated with a soup of toxic chemicals to convert the putrefactive raw skin into a durable material.” This treatment is done in order to keep the fur rotting in the buyer’s closet. Furthermore, various salts along with anomia, formaldehyde, hydrogen peroxide, and other chemicals and bleaching appliances are used to preserve and dye fur (PETA, 2015). Much of the world’s fur has found to be processed in China, where unfortunately environmental regulations are often ignored. Additionally, the inappropriate processing of fur such as coloring is adding to the environmental issue of climate change. “In addition to causing the suffering and deaths of millions of animals each year, the production of wool, fur and leather contributes to climate change, land devastation, pollution and water contamination” (PETA, 2015 p.1).

Turn Waste Production into Sustainability

Furthermore, in 2010 and 2011 it was found Australia imported 1.2 billion units of apparel. It is found that most of this apparel is never sold and is continuously discounted until it is inevitably sent to landfill accumulating to the issues of land devastation and pollution. Everyday 22 million tones of waste go to Australian charities with only 10 percent kept and the rest either recycled as textiles or sent to landfill (Craik, 2015). The waste of apparel has been found to be rapidly growing whilst having the lowest percentage of recycling. A further problem that arises is the source of production, as overseas supplies lack transparency in supply chains that have an obligation to adhere to sustainable and ethical practices (Craik, 2015). The Australian Fashion Report conducted by Baptist World Aid Australia found that only a third of companies know where their product resources are sourced and the involvement in the supply chain. Out of the one third of companies only two companies were found to have an adequate monitoring process through auditing practices concerning sourcing materials that were environmentally friendly (Craik, 2015).

Sportsgirl’s Pledge to Sustainable Environmental Production and Consumption

Sportsgirl has addressed theses environmental issues of fur and waste production and further more the use of Uzbekistan cotton azo dyes, angora fur, animal testing and packaging in order to reach the goal of ethical and sustainable supply and production (Sportsgirl, 2015).

In concern to the unethical sourcing and production of Angora fur Sportsgirl released a statement:

“We’re strongly against animal cruelty, and we take active steps to address this concern. We do this by applying rigid ethical policies and have in place firm and longstanding procedures to do all we can to make sure our products and materials are ethically sourced. We would not under any circumstances do businesses with factories involved with animal cruelty” (McMahon, 2014 p.1).

Sportsgirl stated their aim to reduce environmental issues by pledging to no participation in harsh or inhuman treatment to animals or the environment. Sportsgirl states in their ethical code of conduct that concern has been raised for the humane treatment of Angora rabbits in the production of garments containing fur, however identified that Angora Fur is not used in an of the company’s products (Sportsgirl, 2015). The company has also addressed environmental issues of climate change through reducing packaging, improving design and increasing the level of recycling while becoming educated and understanding the production across their supply chains in order to improve their progress toward the goal of ethical environmental production (Australian Packaging Covenant, 2013).

Sportsgirl & Competitor Environmental Issues Background

Sportsgirl’s environmentally conscious production began in 2007 when it became the first mainstream retail outlet to hang a collection of clothes on an eco-friendly hanger in celebration of its Organic Cotton Collection launch, in campaign of addressing the issues of unethical sourcing and production of cotton and furthermore issues of angora fur, animal testing and packaging. Sportsgirl additionally addressed their corporate social responsibility concerning ethical environmental production and consumption practices in order to motivate consumers to buy on trend fashion sustainably while educating consumers and key stakeholder on environmental concerns (Readfern, 2007).

However, in 2012, Sportsgirl began to feel further pressure from key stakeholders and publics concerning the environmental issues of pollution and the damaging effects of climate change. Sportsgirl began the improvement of their organization in aim to reduce environmental issues through reduced packaging, improved design and an increased level of recycling while becoming educated and understanding the production across their supply chains (Australian Packaging Covenant, 2012).

Likewise, other retail giants such as Myer and Oroton addressed environmental issues of waste and pollution with the aim to minimize these issues through also decreasing packaging used in operations and the packaging waste that goes to landfill by avoiding and eliminating packaging wherever possible. Further implemented strategies were designing re-usable packaging and minimizing the quantity of packaging that goes to waste. In June 2010 Oroton Group Limited was the first to implement the National Packaging Covenant action plan (shown in appendix 2) to minimize environmental impacts of packaging waste by employing the delivery of goods efficiently with minimal environmental impact and using materials and resources more efficiently (Australian Packaging Covenant, 2010). Similarly, as of 2013 Myer Limited followed trend through implemented supply chain initiatives (shown in appendix 3) optimizing the significance in reduction of distribution packaging materials through a performance dashboard for measurement of improvements in collection of recyclable materials such as plastic, paper and cardboard, a collection of reusable security tags and a collection of reusable hangers (Australian Packaging Covenant, 2013).

Following closely behind their competitive retailers, in June 2014, Sportsgirl became overwhelmed with social media attacks on the concerned use of Angora fur in garments and products from their key publics. In response, Sportsgirl released a statement on social media platform Facebook (shown in appendix 5) to address the concerns of their stakeholders and publics. Sportsgirl stated their concern on the stress placed on rabbits, even in ethical harvesting situations and ensured the discontinued stocking of any items that contain Angora Fur as of the 1st of October 2014.

Following, in April 2014, PETA Australia conducted an investigation into the unethical and inhumane treatment of Angora rabbits being farmed in China in order to shed light on the sourcing and production process of the supply chain. Following the release of the disturbing video footage of the inhumane treatment conducted on Chinese farms, giant retail departments such as Myer and David Jones quickly dropped the production of Angora products (PETA 2015).

Myer has since incorporated into their corporate social responsibility a no fur policy committing to the non-sale or consumption of merchandise containing fur, alternatively using fake or faux fur. Since 2014, Myer has also made the decision to boycott the use of Angora rabbit fibres in any products (Myer, 2015).

Company Background & Existing Strategies

Sportsgirl, is an Australian iconic chain brand under the mother brand, The Sussan Group specifying in fashion, beauty and accessories and opened it’s first store in 1948. Now operating in 120 stores nationally as well as online with a reputation as an on trend fashion leader. As industry leaders, Sportsgirl firmly believes they have the reputation and responsibility to educate, demonstrate and promote actions that will help protect the environment and the commitment to tackling the environmental issue of climate change (Sportsgirl, 2015).

Sportsgirl has devoted their organization’s social responsibility to preventing the continuous exploitation of animal cruelty and environmental issues by promoting actions of change regarding the use of angora fur, animal testing and sustainable packaging. Following strategies have been implemented throughout the organization and it’s stores to continue reviewing and improving the processes of their social responsibility (Sportsgirl, 2015).

Furthermore, Sportsgirl has incorporated ethical environmental standards to carefully ensure that materials are sourced and manufactured in countries that respect and maintain the appropriate environmental standards. In aim of supporting their social responsibility and ethical environmental standards external strategies have been implemented regarding the sourcing and manufacturing of products from countries that maintain the appropriate standard. Also implemented are the regular and continuous visits to the countries of supply executed by the buying and executive teams to verify the maintained standard of production and sourcing. Sportsgirl has also requested that each supplier in the production chain respect, understand and adhere to the Code of Conduct for manufacturers by signing the Audit Policy and Procedures Document allowing Sportsgirl to be routinely informed (shown in appendix 4). The aim of the audit program is to support suppliers in a process of continual improvement in their progress towards the goal of ethical production processes (Sportsgirl, 2015).

Additionally, internal strategies implemented regarding the issue of climate change is the support of management’s responsibility to reliably inspire and influence their employees, suppliers, retailers and consumers through the reduced consumption of energy and resources, alternatively sourcing and consuming sustainable energy where possible. These strategies are upheld through the National Packaging Covenant (APC) action plan (shown in appendix 1) continuously reviewing recycling and standards of packaging in direction to meet aims of enabling the balance and reduction of carbon emissions and waste (Australian Packaging Covenant, 2012).

Discussion

Somers, Cain and Jeffery (2011) reveal that all organization’s production processes generate a certain amount of waste and by managing resources more effectively and efficiently by reducing waste, an organization can save on production costs. Somers, Cain and Jeffery (2011) further suggest, the effective ethical and social responsibility of an organization ultimately increases sales as it meets the social, ethical and environmental expectations of society and stakeholders, most importantly consumers as they expect organizations to show concern for the environment.

As of February 2012, The Sussan Group and its chain stores became a participant of the National Packaging Covenant implementing an initial APC (Australian Packaging Covenant) action plan for five years commencing in May 2012 to tackle issues of waste production internally. This implemented strategy plan outlines the organization’s current commitment to the environment and the improved actions for packaging design, the increase in recycling and demonstration of commitment to product management and all the key goals aligned with the APC objectives (Australian Packaging Covenant, 2012).

The action plan covers a five-year period from May 2012 to April 2017. The initiatives under this plan are focused on the organization’s commitment to take action that will reduce packaging requirements, improve overall design of packaging, increase the level of recycling and demonstrate a greater understanding of product stewardship with staff and customers. The actions of this plan will not only involve the key members of the team across supply chains, but also but also focus closely with suppliers to identify opportunities for adopting more environmentally friendly packaging options in order to take action that will contribute to a more sustainable environment (Australian Packaging Covenant, 2012). Sportsgirl has implemented the Australian Packaging Covenant action plan as a part of their social responsibility to key stakeholders in order to improve as an organization in concern for sustainable production and consumption through education of environmental issues. In addition overall improving their progress toward the goal of ethical environmental production.

However, the biggest issue Sportsgirl faces is the large backlash from consumers regarding the environmental issue of Angora fur and their declining reputation surrounding the concern. Although Sportsgirl has identified no participation in harsh or inhumane treatment to animals, and the ethical policies and procedures they have in place regarding ethical sourcing and manufacturing, they have unfortunately not eliminated the notion of manufacturing animal products, initiating a lack of trust among their key publics and consumers. Furthermore, adding to the issue of animal sourcing and production, consumers are becoming increasingly more aware of the problem concerning apparel waste production, as it has become a major issue within Australia.

It is found that 10 per cent of apparel waste is kept for charity shops to sell, while 70 per cent is recycled as textiles and 20 percent ends up in landfill (Craik, 2015).

These issues of animal fur production and waste production are increasingly seen to have a plausible link. As Asian and Pacific countries are known to offer substantially cheaper options, fulfilling the desire for production to be sourced overseas from countries like China, India, Bangladesh and Indonesia ultimately raise issues in quality and sustainability control and causing a collapse in local production due to cost structures (Craik, 2015). As Australian consumers are becoming more aware and mindful of sustainable supply and production, the plausible notion of unethical sourcing and manufacturing of animal products is known. Not only does this become a concern for unethical practice but also becomes a concern for the environmental issue of animal abuse but furthermore the link between fur production and waste production becomes recognized, as animal fur is bleached with a cocktail of toxic chemicals and treatments to preserve the furred apparel in the closet, it is only imagined the effects it would have on the environment when sent to landfill as waste production.

Conclusion & Recommendations

With consumers and stakeholders becoming more educated on sustainability issues, Sportsgirl is facing problems concerning their sourcing and production supply chains. With a dramatic improvement in progress toward the goal of ethical production beginning in 2007, Sportsgirl over the last eight years has successfully implemented a action plan for further improvement on sustainable production and consumption.

Along with Sportsgirl, other large retail organizations such as Myer and Oroton have also taken on a social responsibility to maintain ethical environmental production chains with the confidence of informing their stakeholders on the environmental issues they are tackling.. All organizations have done so by implementing external strategies within their supply and manufacturing chains and internally throughout their organization and chain stores as well as all being a participant of the National Packaging Covenant.

However, concerning the unethical environmental worries risen by consumers in regards to the unethical use, sourcing and production of animal abuse and the plausible link to waste production further recommendations for improvement of ethical environmental production is advised:

• Design a store campaign boycotting the use of animal fur in order to reestablish and maintain relationships with key publics and stakeholders:

• Alternatively, produce fake or faux fur clothing:

• However, considering the production of apparel – possibly only concerning faux fur in Australia.

• Design re-usable packaging while minimizing the quantity of packaging that goes to waste:

• While, implementing a performance dashboard to record key performance indicators for continuous improvement.

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